Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Swedish Meatballs

I've had the most terrible recurrent craving for Swedish meatballs.

The first time I had these was when I was a kid in the 1970s.  My mom would go load up on oodles of frozen food at what really were dingy food warehouses -- pre-Sam's Club and Costco -- and she would buy Swedish meatballs to serve at her parties.  The frozen meatballs would go ding! ding! ding! into the steam tray and we would squeeze some preservative-laden sauce out of sealed plastic bags into the tray. A few hours later the meatballs would be warmed through and covered in the slightly gloppy sauce, beckoning me with their salty and slighty tangy aroma.

In the late 1980s and early 1990s, I was in my 20s and out in the workforce.  I did the Firm tapes for 2 hours a day, and Stouffers' Lean Cuisine Swedish meatballs were my favorite weekly lunch item.  At the time, my palate, loaded down with fat free this and that, thought the meatballs tasted dandy.

Fast forward 20 years and here I was with a Swedish meatball craving.  I went to the store, bought some Stouffers, and eagerly heated it up in the microwave.  I ripped open the plastic, forked a meatball, closed my eyes in anticipation, and took a bite.


All I could taste were chemicals, and the meatballs were stringy and springy.  I threw the rest away.

You would think that would have been the demise of the craving, but no, two weeks later, Swedish meatballs were rolling around in my brain again.

This time I was smart.  I went to the store and bought meatloaf mix, a mixture of beef, pork, and veal.  I made meatballs from scratch, mixing the meat with fresh white bread crumbs soaked in milk, eggs, onions, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and allspice.  I rolled and rolled and rolled the little balls and then browned them on all sides in a skillet, and took them out and set them aside.  Now these were meatballs, tender and light.

To the drippings in the skillet, I added some flour to make a roux, cooked it for a few minutes to take away any floury aftertaste, and then slowly added beef broth until I had a sauce.  I added the meatballs back and simmered them for 10 minutes so they were cooked through.  To finish off the meatballs, I folded in some sour cream, tasted and adjusted the salt and pepper, and added some parsley.

All natural.  All delicious.

I didn't write down what I did, but no worries.  For some Swedish meatball recipes, check out the recipe at Simply Recipes and Alton Brown's recipe on the Food Network site.

I do have some tips for making meatballs without a recipe that is based on ratios.  For 1 lb. of meat, use
  • 1 tsp. kosher salt.  This should nicely season your meatballs.
  • 1 egg
  • 2 slices white bread, no crust, made into breadcrumbs.
  • If you want the meatballs super soft, make a panade by soaking the bread crumbs in about 1/4-1/3 cup milk.
  • So that I can eyeball seasonings, what I normally do is spread the meat on a Silpat or cookie sheet.  This way, it's almost like seasoning your food at the table .  I distribute salt, pepper, any additional spices, parsley, breadcrumbs, cheese on the top of the meat, and I can easily see how much meat I have in relation to other ingredients.  I then put everything in a bowl, add an egg and some liquid (if I didn't make a panade) and incorporate everything together.
  • I cook a sample of meatball meat before I roll all the meatballs.  That way I can taste it and adjust seasonings.
I found the Swedish meatballs were even better the next day.  I love leftovers!

Sunday, February 20, 2011

Caramelized Tomatoes

If I had to pick a few choice recipes for you to try on this blog, caramelized tomatoes would be one of them. Caramelized tomatoes are sublime -- once you've tasted their concentrated, toasty flavor, you might never go back to regular tomatoes.

In addition to eating them like candy because they are so addictive on their own, they are wonderful served with crackers and cheese, used in pasta dishes and soup -- I threw them in some beef barley soup this week -- and in sandwiches, as I did here with caramelized onions and gouda cheese on baguette.  Honestly, making these caramelized tomatoes is like winning the lottery, as they open doors to a wealth of dishes.  The sky's the limit!

I first made these tomatoes at my friend Christine's house.  We house sat there last summer when we were between houses.  I was pretty freaked out to have sold our house and not have anywhere to go, but staying at Christine's house turned out to be the best thing that could ever happen.  In addition to being a lovely, comfortable, and comforting home because of the gracious spirit of the people who live there, Christine's house has a prolific vegetable garden,  Gifted with dozens of cherry tomatoes every week,  I had a chance to try this recipe for caramelized tomatoes at the blog Tigers & Strawberries

Within 40 minutes, I had the most delicious tomatoes, soft yet crispy, roasted yet fresh with garden flavor.  Sunlight in a bottle, or rather tantalizing, little red bowls.  I hope you try them!

Caramelized Tomatoes
adapted from the recipe at Tigers & Strawberries

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees.

I used cherry tomatoes here, but you can do plum, grape, or regular tomatoes.  Core if necessary, taking out the leafy stem.  Cut in half and squeeze and/or scrape the seeds and liquid out with your fingers.

Put the cut tomatoes in a bowl.

When done cutting, toss the tomatoes with olive oil, making sure all tomatoes are lightly covered with oil.  They shouldn't be drowning in oil, but there shouldn't be so little oil that they will dry out in the oven.

Lay all of your tomato halves or slices cut side up on a baking sheet (you can cover the bottom of the sheet with non-stick foil or silpats for easy clean up).

Put them in the oven.

Leave them in the oven for thirty minutes and then check them. If they are a bit shrunken and drying a bit with some toasty dark bits on the edges, they are ready for you to sprinkle on the sugar. If they still seem a bit too juicy and there is no darkening, give them another ten minutes in the oven.

If they are ready, take them out of the oven. Sprinkle a little bit of sugar evenly over the tomatoes. At this time, if you want to add herbs, either fresh or dried, this is the time.

Put the tomatoes back into the oven and let them cook for another five to ten minutes or so.
Remove from the oven, and allow to cool until you can handle them–they should still be warm, but not blisteringly hot–and remove them from the baking sheets and set them on a tray or in a bowl, depending on how you want to use them.

Any syrupy juice that you have on the baking sheets, scrape out and drizzle over the tomatoes.

You can store them in the fridge for up to a week, and you can freeze them for later use. 

Saturday, February 19, 2011

Kulinarya Cooking Club February Aphrodisiac Challenge: Wontons with Spicy Soy-Sesame Sauce

In honor of Valentine's Day, the Kulinarya Cooking Club was challenged by KCC member Pia to make a Filipino dish with an aphrodisiac. 

My response is a variation on Pancit Molo, which is essentially Filipino wonton soup.  In this case, I simmered pre-made Chinese wontons in chicken broth infused with grated GINGER -- ding! ding! the love ingredient -- for ten minutes. When cooked, I transferred them to a bowl with just a little of the broth, spooned a little spicy soy mixture over them, and served them with minced scallions.  Wet, hot, slippery, and stimulating on the tongue ... do I need to say more?

[I am blushing after I wrote that.  We Catholic school girls normally don't talk this way!]

Want to know more about aphrodisiacs?  Here are some links:

If you’re interested in joining our Kulinarya Cooking Club and participating in its monthly challenges, please visit http://au.groups.yahoo.com/group/kulinarya, and become a fan on our Facebook page.   Kulinarya was started by a group of Filipino foodies (Kath, Trisha and Trissa) living in Sydney, who are passionate about Filipino culture and its colorful cuisine.  You don't have to be a Filipino or have a food blog to join, and you can participate as much or as little as your time and interest allows.  Everyone is welcome.

Quick Wontons with Spicy Soy-Sesame Sauce

Premade wontons (as many as you want)
Chicken stock
Fresh ginger
Soy mix: 2 tbs. soy sauce, 1 tbs. rice vinegar, 1 tbs. sugar, dash of spicy sesame oil or to taste

Bring chicken stock to a boil -- you should have enough stock that the wontons can simmer freely and not be too crowded.  Take a knob of ginger, cut the end off and shave off some of the outer skin near the end, maybe 1/4-1/2 an inch.  Using a grater (I use a Microplane), grate some ginger into the broth.  How much?  This is up to you.  Grate the ginger several times, up and down, up and down, and up and down, and then tap the grater on the edge of the sauce pan, to drop the grated ginger into the pan.  Do that one more time.  Taste the broth.  If you want more ginger, grate some more in.

Add the wontons, and when the broth comes up to a boil, turn down the heat until it's at a gentle simmer so that the wontons don't break apart.  Follow the directions on the wonton package and cook them until they're done.

While the wontons are cooking, mix your dumpling sauce out of the soy sauce, rice vinegar, sugar, and spicy sesame oil.

Using a slotted spoon, put the wontons in a bowl or on a plate with curved sides.  Spoon some chicken broth over the wontons.  Spoon some dumpling sauce over the wontons.  Sprinkle with some minced scallions.

Serve to the object of your desire.  Happy Valentine's Day!

Momofuku Octo-Vin Sauce (with Scallions)

David Chang of Momofuku fame says repeatedly in his cookbook that he has no idea how he got famous, that he and his crew were just a bunch of hacks, and that he was embarrassed about all the hoopla about his food.

I understand what he means.  If you look at his recipes, they are simple in ingredients.  Many of them use the same ingredients as a way of economizing and repurposing things in a small restaurant kitchen.  Many of them use techniques where food is prepared in advance and can be finished off in minutes for hungry diners.

That's exactly why David is brilliant.  His food is enduring and familiar, but it's also fresh and exciting.  It's down to earth yet on the edge.  How can that be?  I haven't quite got a handle on it yet.  I am still in awe that sauces like this Octo-vin sauce can be so surprisingly good, even though I've combined these same ingredients countless times before I ever heard of David Chang.

His sauce normally doesn't have scallions, but since I had his ginger scallion sauce on hand, I just used that instead of the ginger suggested in the recipe.  I tossed some chicken wings in the sauce, and I bet it would be good with dumplings, on steak in place of chimichurri sauce, on seafood, and grilled or steamed vegetables.  Throw in some orange juice, and I know it would be a lovely marinade.  The more I think about it, this sauce as a base for other sauces opens up many possibilities.

I hope you try it.  It will become a foundation sauce for you.

Octo-Vin Sauce

Note: If you have ginger scallion sauce on hand, you can substitute that for the ginger below.  Also, if you don't have fresh chili pepper, you can use a little red crushed pepper, hot sesame oil, cayenne, and/or ichimi togarashi to taste. David Chang cautions to cut the ginger and garlic fine, so the texture is right to the palate.

2 tablespoons finely chopped garlic
2 tablespoons chopped peeled fresh ginger
1/4 teaspoon finely chopped fresh chili pepper
1/4 cup rice wine vinegar
1/4 cup light soy sauce
2 tablespoons canola, vegetable or grapeseed oil
1/4 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
1 1/2 tablespoons sugar

freshly ground black pepper    

Mix ingredients together.

Thursday, February 17, 2011

Momofuku Ginger Scallion Sauce

This ginger scallion sauce from the Momofuku cookbook, a great cookbook, is so versatile that you'll use it in everything -- on noodles, vegetables, soup, foods hot and cold.  I teach an Asian cooking class, and this is going on the list to make!

Ginger Scallion Sauce
Makes about 3 cups
2½ cups thinly sliced scallions (greens and whites; from 1 to 2 large bunches)
½ cup finely minced peeled fresh ginger
¼ cup grapeseed or other neutral oil
1½ tsp usukuchi (light soy sauce)
¾ tsp sherry vinegar
¾ tsp kosher salt, or more to taste
Mix all the ingredients together and let sit for 15-20 minutes before using. It’ll keep in the fridge for about a week.

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Leftover Maven: Mushroom Stroganoff

My friends Kate and Julia are vegetarians, and I admire them.  I wish I could leave meat behind.  But as my daughter Christina says, beef and bacon tastes too good!

I endeavor, however, to eat less meat, and I appreciate people like Mark Bittman who has promoted eating less meat and movements like Meatless Monday.

I had some leftover caramelized onions and mushrooms from Super Bowl Sunday, and I thought they would be great in a stroganoff.  I heated them in a skillet, added some broth, worcestershire sauce, paprika, and sour cream.  With egg noodles, it was delectable, and I didn't miss the meat at all.  And it only took 10 minutes!

Sunday, February 6, 2011

What Did You Make for Super Bowl Sunday?

Super Bowl Sunday is a major cook- and eat-fest for a lot of people.  Wings, chili, ribs, pizza, bratwurst, chips, lots of Mex or Tex-mex food, and tons of dips, cold or hot.  In other words, classic American chow.

I wasn't that interested in cooking after mounting several Snow Day Challenges, where my friend Julia and I were posting 7-8 dishes in a 24-hour period.  This past Friday, my husband picked up takeout, and I was happy as a clam not to turn on the stove or wash any pots.

On Saturday, I sat around in my pajamas all day and devoured a book instead of food.  It was divine.

Then today, Sunday, came, as did the requests.  Can we make salsa?  Boy, I'd like some wings.  Geez, I'd really like to not eat meat.  (By the way, the last person was me.)

I ended up going to the grocery store, firing up the stove and oven, and generating some Super Bowl-worthy dishes.  My family was happy.  And so was I.  How can you not be when you hear, "Wow, Mom, that was outstanding."?  I am a sucker for compliments.

Super Bowl 2011 Dish #1: Honey mustard spareribs smoked over oak on my indoor smoker.  I dry rubbed the rubs with salt, pepper, paprika, and a little ground chipotle.  Then I mixed together a couple spoonfuls of dijon mustard with a couple spoonfuls of honey, and a splash of apple cider vinegar, and rubbed that onto the ribs.  I smoked the ribs for an hour in my indoor smoker.  Then I wrapped them in foil with a little beer and transferred them to a 325 degree oven to cook a couple hours until they were tender.  A few minutes under the broiler and they were done.  My family is not really a sauce family, so I served the sauce on the side (equal amounts honey and mustard with a splash of vinegar).

Super Bowl 2011 Dish #2: Chicken Bites with Buffalo Wing Sauce.  The grocery store was cleaned out of chicken wings, so I bought boneless chicken thighs.  I cut them into bite-size pieces and tossed them in melted butter and a little mustard.  I then breaded them with panko, put them on a baking sheet, sprayed them with olive oil spray, and baked them in a 400 degree oven until they were browned -- 20-30 minutes.  I served them with buffalo wing sauce on the side (almost equal parts melted butter and Frank's Red Hot Sauce with a little more hot sauce and a shot of vinegar).

Super Bowl 2011 Dish #3: Pita pizzas with Boursin Cheese, caramelized onions, and sauteed mushrooms. In this heavy meat-eating house, these turned out to be the favorite!  I caramelized onions and then sauteed mushrooms in the same pan with shallots, garlic, a dash of wine, balsamic vinegar, and dried thyme.  Salt and pepper of course.  I split pita bread in 1/2, spread Boursin cheese on the bread and topped them with the onions, mushrooms, and a sprinkling of parmesan cheese.  Then I threw them under the broiler until they were toasty and cut them into wedges.  Very flavorful and yummy.

Super Bowl 2011 Dish #4: Red velvet cupcakes with cream cheese frosting.  My daughter Christina made these yesterday, and yes, the frosting is also homemade.  I'll be posting this recipe soon.

Super Bowl 2011 Dish #5: Nutella on baguette slices with banana and toffee bits. These were in honor of World Nutella Day (2/4/11).  Delish!

What did you make for Super Bowl Sunday?

Saturday, February 5, 2011

Dimple's Jamaican Chicken with Rum BBQ Sauce (using Momofuku Technique)

We've had a lot of snow days this winter -- 7 so far.  Last week, my friend Julia started the Snow Day Challenge.  The challenge is to not make a panic run to the grocery store but to cook something creative with what you have in your pantries. 

Julia is no slouch, so we kept throwing down dishes and posting them on Facebook. On the first SDC, I made seven dishes, and Julia made eight, including her finale which involved mixing leftover bottles of red wine to fill her drinking glass.  I declared her the winner on that one, and on her banana cake which involved using a random frozen banana she found in the freezer.

The past two days was SDC 2.0 as we got snow and then ice.  These wings were dish #7.  With this round, I decided I was going to make things I hadn't made before or use a new technique.  With the wings, I decided to use David Chang's technique at Momofuku for fried chicken, which involves steaming the chicken first and then a quick fry.  I steamed the wings in my indoor smoker/steamer for 20 minutes.

It's a great technique for prepping wings in advance, such as for the Super Bowl or other party, and I'm sure you could finish them off on the grill instead of deep frying them.

As for the recipe, I found a recipe in Steve Raichlen's cookbook, , which is a great cookbook by the way.  It's for Dimple's Jamaican chicken.

Here's a link to Steve Raichlen' cooking forum  and a reader making this recipe.

Dimple's Barbequed Chicken Wings and Rum BBQ Sauce
adapted from Steve Raichlen's The Barbeque Bible and Momofuku Cookbook fried chicken technique

(Note: Give yourself advance time -- 12-24 hours to marinate the chicken.)

1 dozen chicken wingettes (1 pack) or more

1 bunch scallions, both white and green parts, trimmed and finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 to 1 Scotch bonnet chile, seeded and finely chopped, or 1/2 to 1 tp. Scotch bonnet-based hot sauce (or your pick of chile or hot sauce; I used Sriracha.)
1 tbs. sweet paprika
1 tsp. fresh thyme or 1/2 tsp. dried thyme
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
2 tbs. soy sauce (or more if you're using chicken wings or chicken parts)
1 tbs. vegetable oil.

BBQ Sauce (I made 1/2)

1 cup ketchup
1/3 cup soy sauce
4 scallions, both white and green parts, trimmed and minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tbs. minced, peeled fresh ginger
1/3 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
1/4 cup white vinegar
2 tbs. dark rum, or more to taste

Combine the marinade ingredients in a bowl or in a Ziploc bag if you're using chicken wings.  You can puree the ingredients together if you want a richer flavor.  Set aside.

Rinse chicken wings.  Put them in the Ziploc bag with the marinade ingredients and "smush" the bag, distributing the ingredients evenly over the wings; if there's not enough liquid to distribute, add more soy sauce.  Refrigerate for 12-24 hours, turning the bag over several times.

Make BBQ sauce by combining ingredients except for the rum in a saucepan and simmering for 10-15 minutes, until thick and richly flavored.  Add rum during the last two minute, taste for seasoning and adding more rum if necessary.  Remove from heat.  You should have about 2 cups.

Steam wings (I have a Cameron's indoor smoker which I also use as a steamer) for 20 minutes.  When done, dry off on paper towels.

Heat oil to 375 degrees and dry for 4 minutes or until nice and crispy.  Serve with BBQ sauce.


Wednesday, February 2, 2011

Christine's Cheese Souffle

Souffles are out of my normal culinary reportoire, which is firmly esconced in the countries of the Pacific with a good touch of Americana.  I made individual chocolate souffles once to satisy a craving of my craving-driven daughter Christina, so I understand the appeal of their silky interiors and light, crispy shells.  Somehow flavor is magnified in those hundreds of trapped air bubbles.

I made this as part of a Snow Day Challenge, started by my friend Julia, who's been featured here before.  The challenge is to not make a panic run to the grocery store but to cook something creative with what you have in your pantries.  My friend Christine shared this recipe as a good one to make with pantry staples such as butter, flour, milk, eggs, and cheese.

I made 1/2 the recipe, used gouda and parmesan cheeses, and divided the batter among four individual ramekins -- it took only ten minutes in a 400 degree oven, and I had these lovely, fluffy, cheesey clouds of goodness.  I ate my souffle with a sliced granny smith apple, and it was divine.

If you wanted to read up on souffles and souffle technique, go to 101 Cookbooks.

Christine's Cheese Souffle
Adapted from the Art of Simple Food by Alice Waters
Serves 4

6 T Butter
3 T Flour
1 C Milk
Freshly ground pepper
Pinch Cayenne pepper
4 Eggs - separated
¾ C Grated Gruyere or Cheddar
¼ C Grated Parmesan
Grated Parmesan & Bread Crumbs for dusting dish

1 Thyme sprig

1) Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
2) Generously butter 1-quart soufflé dish or 8 4-oz ramekins with 1 T butter and sprinkle with bread crumbs and grated parmesan
3) Melt remaining 5 T butter in heavy saucepan over medium heat
4) Stir in flour and cook for 2 minutes
5) Whisk in milk little by little, whisking thoroughly between additions
6) Season béchamel sauce with salt, pepper, cayenne and leaves from one thyme sprig
7) Cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and cool slightly
8) Stir egg yolks into sauce and add cheeses
9) Whip egg whites into moist firm peaks
10) Stir 1/3 of whites into soufflé base, then gently fold remaining whites taking care not to deflate them
11) Pour mixture into prepared dish
12) Bake 35-40 minutes for large dish (or 10 minutes at 400 for individual dishes,) until puffed and golden but still soft in the center and jiggly when shaken gently

Tuesday, February 1, 2011

Chicken Wings with Momofuku Tare Sauce

It's chicken wing week here at BBB Food.  I may look really organized, posting Super Bowl recipes in advance.    Or I may just be catering to my family's chicken wing cravings.

Or maybe I'm succumbing to my current obsession with the Momofuku Cookbook and had some Momofuku tare to slather on some wings.  You will never know, will you?  It's a mind-bender situation like that movie Inception, which I just saw on pay-per-view.

Speaking of, do you think Leonardo DiCaprio's character was in or out of the dream at the end of the movie? Hmmm...

Tare is the Japanese basting sauce which is used for yakitori (grilled chicken skewers) and as a seasoning for Tokyo-style ramen.  It's made of roasted chicken bones, mirin, sake, and soy sauce, which is then simmered down and concentrated into a potent sauce.  You don't need much. A little goes a long way.

If you find the sauce too salty for your palate, you can add honey or sugar to amp up the sweet tones.

Chicken Wings with Momofuku Tare Sauce

Chicken wingettes, as many as you want (we made 2 packs of chicken wingettes)
Brine (8 cups water, 2/3 cup kosher salt, 2/3 cup sugar)
Tare sauce below (soy sauce, mirin, sake, sugar, chicken bones)

If you don't buy the wingettes but full chicken wings, cut off the wingtip and separate the drumstick and the wing , or the "two-bone" as my daughter calls it.  If you're not really sure how to cut up wings, watch this handy dandy video.

Make the brine in a large bowl or pot, letting the sugar and salt dissolve.  Add the wings and let brine in the fridge for 1-3 hours.

When you're ready to cook the wings, preheat oven to 425 degrees.

Take out bowl/pot of chicken from the fridge and rinse chicken well (I mean really well -- I dump them out into a clean sink and rinse them with the faucet sprayer.  Dry on paper towels and then place on a baking sheet or baking sheets if you have a lot of wings.  I use Silpats, so the chicken doesn't stick to the baking sheet, but one could also use non-stick aluminum foil or teflon baking sheets. Sprinkle with fresh ground pepper and put on the middle rack of the oven.

The wings will take 45 minutes to an hour and 15 minutes, depending on their size and how crispy you like them.

Cook for 30 minutes and then flip over.  The wings will start to brown in the second half of their cooking time.  You can flip them occasionally, so they brown on both sides.  If your oven doesn't heat evenly and you notice some wings are browning faster than others, you can rotate the baking sheet(s) as well.

When they are crispy to your liking, take them out and brush lightly with tare sauce.  Turn on the broiler and place the wings under the broiler (top or second rack) until  charred (not burned) -- make sure not to leave the oven and watch until the wings are browned to your liking. Alternately, you can brush the wings with sauce and "grill" them in a hot skillet.

Browning on one side is good enough.  Serve and enjoy!

Momofuku Tare
from the Momofuku Cookbook

(Note: if you don't have chicken, make it without; you only have to bring it to a boil for a few minutes to cook off the alcohol, and it should be fine.  I often use cooked leftover bones from chicken.  I brown them on the stovetop and then continue with the recipe.)

2-3 chicken backs, or the bones and their immediately attendant flesh and skin reserved from butchering one chicken
1 cup sake
1 cup mirin
2 cups usukuchi

Heat the oven to 450 degrees.

Cut the chicken back into 3 pieces or any other chicken you're using into smaller pieces as more surface area creates more browning which causes more flavor.

Spread the bones out into a wide 12-14 inch heatproof saute pan or skillet and put in the oven for 45 minutes to 1 hour.  Check on the bones after 40 minutes to make sure they are browning and not burning.  You want deeply browned bones and the fond -- the fatty liquid caramelizing on the bottom of the pan -- to be very dark but not blackened (flecks of black here and there, or at the edges of the pool are fine, but charred fond is bitter and would have to be discarded).  Watch as the bones color, and pull them out when they're perfectly browned.

When the bones are browned, remove the pan from the oven (with a mitt!) and put it on the stovetop.  Pour a splash of sake onto the pan and put the pan over a burner and turn the heat to medium-high.  Once the sake starts to bubble, scrape up the fond from the bottom of the pan.

Once the fond is free from the bottom of the pan, add the remaining sake, mirin, and soy sauce to the pan.  Turn the heat to high.  When the liquid comes to a boil, lower the heat so that it barely simmers.  Cook for 1 hour.  It will reduce somewhat, the flavors will meld, and the tare will thicken ever so slightly.

Strain the bones out and season the liquid with 5-6 turns of black pepper.  The tare can be used right away or cooled and stored, covered, in the refrigerator for 3-4 days.